You’ve probably heard the name Retinol before. You might even be using a form of it right now in your skincare routine. It’s proven to be a massively popular option for people looking to maintain or boost their skin tone and texture due to its, potentially, very impressive results. But, do you know your retinol from your retinoic acid? And, if there’s this thing called “retinol” already, then what’s a “retinoid”??? I’m always surprised by just how frequently I’m asked in-clinic for advice or clarification of what’s what, so I’ve put together some information here that I hope will prove useful to you.

As always, I advocate seeing a skincare professional before starting out on any new course of treatment. It’s always best to err on the side of caution and be well informed – especially when applying new products to your face!

So, what exactly is retinol?

Retinol is a type of vitamin A that belongs to a class of compounds known as retinoids. It’s an important nutrient for skincare and beauty because of its ability to promote cell turnover, stimulate collagen production and help improve the texture and tone of the skin. It can be effective in addressing issues like fine lines, wrinkles, uneven skin tone and even acne.

Sounds too good to be true, right? Well, even though retinol use can give some great results, it’s important to note that retinol can be quite a potent ingredient and might cause skin sensitivity, redness, dryness, and peeling, especially when first introduced into a skincare routine.

What’s the difference between retinol and retinoids?

These are both chemical compounds derived from vitamin A but there has been some misunderstanding as to what people are actually referring to when they say retinol. A lot of people simply refer to all retinoids as retinol – hence the confusion!

“Retinoids” is the umbrella term for these compounds that encompasses all vitamin A derivatives including both over-the-counter options like retinol as well as prescription-strength options like tretinoin (Retin-A), tazarotene and adapalene. Prescription-strength retinoids are generally more potent and have a more direct effect on the skin which is why they may require medical supervision and are regulated more than retinol.

“Retinol” is a specific type of retinoid and is a weaker form compared to prescription-strength retinoids. It is available over-the-counter and is typically found in various skincare products such as creams, serums, and oils. Because it’s a milder option, it can be a good choice for those of us that are new to retinoids or with more sensitive skin.

What does retinol treat?

Regular retinol use can help diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by promoting collagen synthesis and increasing cell turnover. It helps fade hyperpigmentation and dark spots caused by sun damage, acne scars and other factors which leads to a more even skin tone and improved complexion.

It’s also often prescribed to effectively treat acne. It can help prevent clogged pores, reduce inflammation, and regulate sebum production, all of which contribute to clearer and smoother skin.

Retinol is good for treating the following skin conditions:

–  Acne and oil control
–  Skin texture such as large pores
–  Fine lines and wrinkles
–  Dark spots, pigmentation and melasma

But, be warned! It’s important to approach retinol use with care and knowledge. Its potency can lead to side effects, especially when not used properly and there is a risk of sensitivity, redness, dryness and peeling, especially when first introduced.

It’s highly recommended to introduce retinol slowly and gradually into your skincare routine and to use it in conjunction with a good-grade vitamin C anti-oxidant and a high-quality sunscreen to minimize any potential side effects.

How to avoid the dreaded retinol reaction!

Experiencing a retinol reaction (often referred to as the “retinol purge” or “retinization”) is a much more common occurrence than you might think. It’s easy to get the amount applied to your skin wrong when you first start using it and especially more so when using stronger forms like prescription retinoids. There are, however, several steps you can take to minimise the likelihood and severity of these reactions while still benefiting from retinol use …

– Use a pea-sized amount on your fingertip to begin with and be sure to avoid applying to sensitive areas such as around the eyes, corners of the mouth and around the nasal area.

– It’s recommended to start with a lower concentration and gradually increase usage to allow the skin to adapt. Apply it every third day at least to begin with which will increase your skin’s tolerance. Then, gradually increase the frequency as your skin becomes more accustomed to it.

– Use a mild, non-drying cleanser that won’t strip your skin of its natural oils and avoid harsh exfoliating cleansers or scrubs. Apply retinol to completely dry skin after cleansing. This can help reduce the likelihood of irritation.

– Retinol products should typically be used at night and given time to penetrate the skin. This will also stop transferrance to clothing, pillows, etc.

– Don’t mix retinol with other strong skincare ingredients as this can increase the likelihood of irritation. Use retinol on its own and keep your routine simple.

– Make sure you wash your hands thoroughly after application to avoid transferring any retinol to sensitive areas such as the eyes or mouth.

– Sunscreen is essential! Use a high-quality, broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 50 during the day. This is an absolute deal-breaker! Retinol can make your skin so much more sensitive to the sun and protection is crucial to prevent further damage.

Your skin may actually appear worse on the outside initially as it adjusts to the retinol. Individual reactions can vary from skin sensitivity, redness, dryness and peeling, especially when first introduced into a skincare routine. Some people may not experience a significant purge or negative effects at all while others might experience more pronounced changes initially. These will be temporary effects and shouldn’t last longer than a few days. As always, I urge you to consult with your SkinGenius aesthetic practitioner should you have any concerns.

One last thing …

It’s so important to note that retinol use should be tailored to our individual skin types, concerns and sensitivities.

If you’re considering using retinol to treat specific skin concerns, please get in touch with us at SkinGenius to discuss which retinol treatment is the best choice for you. We will be able to provide you with personalized, professional guidance based on your skin’s unique characteristics and needs and, also, how to incorporate retinol into your skincare routine safely and effectively.

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